From Reef Dropout to Island Savior: A Coral Gardener's Guide to Koh Mak and Koh Kood
Ever dreamt of turning your passion into a global mission? That's precisely what Roula Khalaf, the Editor of the FT, highlights in her selection of favorite stories, starting with a journey that began with a bold decision: dropping out of school to establish Coral Gardeners in French Polynesia back in 2017. Fast forward, and this initiative has blossomed into a team of 80 dedicated individuals, including scientists from prestigious institutions like Berkeley, all united in the fight to restore coral reefs and raise awareness about climate change.
In 2022, a pivotal moment arrived when Yodchai Sudhidhanakul, a prominent businessman from one of Koh Mak's five local families, reached out. Alarmed by the deteriorating condition of the island's coral reefs, one of the largest in the region, he sought the expertise of Coral Gardeners. This marked the beginning of a powerful partnership.
My first scouting trip to Koh Mak and Koh Kood, just a 30-minute ferry ride apart, was nothing short of breathtaking. Koh Kood, the larger and more remote of the two, boasts lush jungles, cascading waterfalls, and ancient, sacred trees. Koh Mak, on the other hand, is so small you can easily explore it by bike.
But here's where it gets controversial... Diving beneath the surface was an explosion of color and life. I was stunned by the sheer diversity of coral species. Bubble coral, with its candy-like polyps, quickly became a favorite. The reef teemed with life: electric-blue spotted rays, schools of rainbow-colored fish, soft coral, and giant table coral. However, the scene wasn't without its scars. Patches of the reef lay destroyed, victims of both global warming and destructive fishing practices like dynamiting, which obliterates the seafloor.
Thailand represents Coral Gardeners' third and most ambitious expansion, with its regional headquarters on Koh Mak and offices on Koh Kood. They've employed a team of 10 locals across both islands. The goal? To transform fishermen into reef restorers. They're building the first land-based coral farm in Thailand on Koh Mak, accelerating the growth of slow-growing species by fragmenting them and cultivating them in tanks. You can even adopt a Thai coral on their website and follow their progress.
Koh Rang National Park is a diver's paradise, known for its stunning underwater landscapes. I usually visit in March or April for the best weather and visibility. Bang Bao beach on Koh Kood is another must-see.
While I'm more of a diver than a foodie, Thai cuisine is an adventure in itself. The coconuts on Koh Mak and Koh Kood have a unique, slightly salty flavor that's incredibly delicious. I recommend Koh Mak Seafood restaurant for its tom yum soup, brimming with ginger, lemongrass, and coconut. For breakfast, Food Art Hut offers amazing smoothies and acai bowls, perfect for fueling a day of work. And for sunset drinks, the Blue Pearl Bar, perched on a pier, offers breathtaking views. Order the Blue Lagoon cocktail or a local Leo beer.
Growing up on a pearl farm, I'm accustomed to the tranquility of these islands. The locals understand the importance of tourism for their economy, but they're also committed to preserving their environment. They're against littering, pollution (reef-safe sunscreen is a must!), and disturbing the coral and marine life. Remember, touching coral is against the law in Thailand. Explore the islands by bike or electric golf cart, and participate in beach clean-ups with Trash Hero Koh Mak. Support local sustainability by eating local food.
Koh Mak has been recognized as one of the top 100 sustainable destinations. The locals are aiming for the top spot. Coral Gardeners is developing eco-tourism by offering educational workshops and immersive coral restoration experiences. For accommodation, I recommend Little Moon Villa, known for its charm and convenient location on Ao Ta Long beach. It's crucial to remember that you're a guest in their world.
Key Spots to Note:
- Bars, Cafés & Restaurants:
- Blue Pearl Bar
- Food Art Hut
- Koh Mak Seafood
- Things to Do:
- Bang Bao beach
- Trash Hero Koh Mak
- Where to Stay:
- Little Moon Villa
What are your thoughts? Do you agree with the balance between tourism and conservation? Share your opinions in the comments below!
